no idea how much it would change , but I'm guessing it wouldnt be anything drastic. You probably don't want it to change more than 1 to 2 percent anyway... 53% isnt that far off.

 

i would say if your car is working dont bother. mine is 1" back and i cant get to trans bolts ect. and anytime i have to take the motor out it always has to come with the trans. kinda sux sometimes

 

While it may be working, it can always work better.

Has anyone else done this? I can't imagine the trans bolts are fun to deal with, but I could always move the engine forward if I needed to get at them.

 

Has anyone else done this? I can't imagine the trans bolts are fun to deal with, but I could always move the engine forward if I needed to get at them.

Whats up Ian? My engine is setback 1" from factory. My trans bolts aren't too bad, but I have a 8.2" block.

I don't have any hard numbers for you, but my car did run 6.40s with nothing more than a air bag and front sway bar removed. Stock springs, shocks, control arms, etc.. On 2 year old DRs. I don't know how much of a factor the setback was, but everyone was shocked at the cars performance.

 

Trans bolts are not a problem. Drill a hole in the firewall and run a socket to them easy as pie.

 

Trans bolts are not a problem. Drill a hole in the firewall and run a socket to them easy as pie.[/QUOTE

This is what we do. Makes it a lot easier. What kind if difference with motorplates

 

i did this in my 95 S-10 4"setback custom headers crossmember etc. and wishing i didnt its a lot harder to go back to orig.location after only small improvement in 60s jm.02

 

Good info guys, keep it coming. I'm very surprised that most are advising against this....

 

With a rubber grommet. Plus screw the NHRA if they are there I want be.

 

I use sheat metal and rivets .the holes are only big enough for the socket .

 

the right rear shock and rear chassis adjustment will gain more in the 60ft than the engine set back